Machine Building2...components into sub-assemblies

Thursday's are now my day off, so here's what I've managed to get done...

Components into Sub-Assemblies:
As with anything mechanical, a Tattoo Machine contains various components that when coupled together, they'll form a sub-assembly...
...in this case these's two sets of sub-assemblies that will each form a Top & Bottom Binding Post.

On a standard DC Coil Machine, both of these Binding Posts are for the (+) Positive connection & so will have some form of Insulators to stop any short circuiting to the Frame which is the (-) Negative connection.
Top Binding Posts are obviously at the "top" of the Machine & contain the Contact Screw, which in my case are always made of Sterling Silver.
Bottom Binding Posts are typically positioned at the bottom of a Frame & is where the Clip Cord will go.

I like to have them all assembled & ready to go when I start the final assembly into a complete Machine.

And that same basic principle also applies to the Springs...
...Top Spring, Back Spring & the Armature when put together form another sub-assembly.
So here's a couple of photos showing the Spring sets being marked out & cut.

Lots of sub-assemblies...Frames, Binding Posts & Springs.

Top & Back Springs all cut, their holes punched & all sharp edges linished smooth.

Machine Building2...black oxide finish

Here's a quick update on where the Frames are currently at...

Black Oxide:
With all of the Frames linished, reamed & stamped, it was now time for the Black Oxide treatment.
Being that it's a specialised process, I simply drop the Frames off & pick them up the next day.
They come back with their Black Oxide finish, but they're also covered with oil to minimise any rusting.
So obviously my next job is going to be a thorough cleaning & remove all traces of that oil from them.

Here's the Frames just back from getting their Black Oxide finish.

A closer view of the Frames.
Note that the surface texture is just a thick covering of oil over them.

Another close up view of the Frames with their Black Oxide finish.
Note that the surface texture is just a thick covering of oil over them.

Machine Building2...linish, ream, stamp

Linish:
Next on the agenda was to now linish all of the edges & surfaces of the Frames.
I'm using a special Scotchbrite Belt to remove all the various file marks & give the Frames a nice satin finish.

Frames laid out in preparation for their linishing.

Frames on the left & the Scothbrite Belt all set up & ready to go

Another view of that Scothbrite Belt used for linishing.

And so the linishing of the Frames begins. 

Closer view of the freshly linished Frames.

Ream:
After all of the linishing is completed, I then go through & individually hand ream all the Tube holes.
This helps to ensure that both 5/16" & 8mm Tubes (of good quality) will fit correctly into my Machines.

To ensure a nice fit for Tubes, each Frame is individually hand reamed.

Stamp:
I then go through & double check everything is square & aligned correctly.
Once I'm sure that each Frame is OK, I then individually stamp them C.CREED 2012

Frame in position ready for it's stamping.

Apologies for slightly out of focus shot...but the stamp was good.

12 x Frames all completed & stamped.

Machine Building2...file, drill, tap

File:
There were 6 x Frames left over that still needed to be cleaned up after being welded & brazed...
...so here's that process with accompanying photos.

Each of the Frames is individually filed as part of the clean up process.
In this photo, the last Frame is waiting to be filed.

A closer view of those Frames.

Drill:
This is part of that whole idea of "work smarter, not harder"
After the last of the 6 x Frames was finished being cleaned up, the next process is to set up for the drilling of the Quickchange.
Because all the Frames are now being laser cut, everything is identical & accurate, so all their holes are in exactly the same spot.
Knowing each Frame would correctly line up in the same position each time, meant I was able to design myself a Jig to hold the Frames, whilst drilling the hole for their Quickchange.

Next comes the drilling to give the Frames their Quickchange.
I've made things easier for myself by building a Jig to suit.

Another view of the Frame set up into the Jig for drilling the Quickchange.

Tap:
After all 12 of the Frames were drilled, the next process was to tap those holes to suit a threaded stud.

I'm using the exact same thread type as found on any standard American made Machines...

...that is 8-32 UNC
I've deliberately chosen 8-32 UNC in an effort to keep things uniform for anyone buying my Machines.
There's nothing more frustrating than reaching for the Allen Key that fits everything else & finding it wont..!

Each of those drilled holes needs to be tapped.